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Approach:
4-6 hours to Landslide Lake via Elk River trail from Highway #28. To either South or North cols, traverse around Landslide Lake on south shore. To North Col, head directly up moraine and through timber to slide basin and on to the alpine shoulder. To South Col, ascend snow gullies or low 5th class slabs depending on snow cover to South Glacier and South Col. An alternative route to the South Col is to continue up the Elk River to near Elk Pass and hike over satellite peak, descending gullies to South Col. Descend via South or North Cols or rappel West Face.
Summer Routes
- ** South Summit via South Col and South Gullies:
- AI2-4th class 300m from South Col to South Summit
- From the South Col two parallel gullies lead directly up to the South Summit. When full of snow these gullies are fast but with no snow are more difficult, with exposed rock steps and lots of loose gravel. Easier gullies can be reached by heading round to the south west side from the col. These gullies join the South Gullies at a shoulder from where the rest of the climb is a steep hike to the South Summit.
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- ** SB Snow Band Route: AI2 5.10 800m (lll)
- Approach as for the South Col but leave the South Glacier on a spur glacier that rises under the South Summits. A couple of rock pitches lead on to the Summit Glacier and joins the Summit Traverse near the gendarme. Can also be used as a descent route off the mountain with a couple of rappels over the rock step. Exposed!!
- *** C Cataract: 5.8 1350m (lV)
- 400m of 4th/low 5th class up lower of two parallel gullies leads to an incredible rappel down to lip of cataract. 20 pitches 4th class -5.8 lead to a glacial arete and on to the summit ridge near the gendarme.
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- *** E East Face (Culbert Route): 5.8 1100m (lV)
- A classic route up the northeast face following the lefthand of the two most prominent buttresses, leading direct to the main summit. Start up a triangular rock formation bounded by gullies, in to lower basin of the Grand Central Coulior, 4th/low 5th class. Traverse right, out toward buttress crest and continue to the Main Summit, 4th class-5.7.
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- *** I Into The Mystic: 5.10a 1200m (V)
- A steep line up the righthand of the two main buttresses leading to the northeast summit. Two 5.7 pitches lead to long ledge across buttress toe, head to left end. Above, sustained 5.8-10a for 13 pitches past roofs and steep ribs leads to easier 10 pitches to North East Summit. Fast descent down gully on west side from col between NE Summit and the NW Summit.
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- *** Summit Traverse: 5.8 2200m (lll/lV)
- Most aesthetically done from north end, starting up North Buttress on the North Tower. Descend in to col between Tower and North West Summit with two rappels. Continue along ridge crest keeping to the west side until the Main Summit. Several rappels and 5.6-8 pitches are then required to reach the South Summit. Descend to South Col.
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- West Central Buttress: 5.8 4th class 450m (lll)
- Approach by traversing from the South Col. Climbs the prominent
- buttress on West Face, leading onto the Summit Ridge between the Main Summit and the Gendarme.
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- *** NB North Buttress: 5.8 400m (lll)
- Takes the righthand skyline as seen from Landslide Lake upto the summit of the North Tower. Excellent rock and excellent protection for 6 pitches of 5.6-8, lead to a ledge. There are several options up a short, steep wall ~5.9-8 leading to the summit boulder garden. Two rappels down West Face.
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- ** LB Lost Boys: 5.9 175m (ll)
- Climb an easy ramp and ledge system out of the coulior to the base of a steep chimney. Climb cracks up right wall ~5.6-7, to reach a 5.9 arete.
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- WF West Face: 4th/low 5th class 100m (l)
- Steep rock. Exact details unknown. Can be descended with 2 rappels.
Winter Routes
- *** GC Grand Central Coulior: AI 4 1000m (Vl)
- Follows coulior to Main Summit. Also climbed in spring conditions.
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- *** D Dirrettissima: AI4 1000m (V)
- Plumline coulior with sustained 70-80 degree ice.
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